First Mountain
Biking Expedition On The Silk Route
Snow-capped
mountains, age-old monasteries, gurgling waterfalls and rare high altitude
birds. These are just some of the facets which make Sikkim so special. Peace
and tranquility are perfect words to describe this corner of India which is a
virgin biking route. If nature, thrill, adventure, Himalayas and mountain
biking appeal to you, then you do not need to look beyond Sikkim. Just escape
there on your bike from the cares of the city into the lap of mountains which
hold millions of surprises within its folds. There is such richness of culture,
religion, a mélange of peaceful people, amidst all its splendor, challenging
terrain, high altitude, wildlife, unpredictable weather which made the maiden
biking expedition on the old and new silk route nothing less than an
expedition.
There were mix
of emotions of anxiety, fear and thrill when we were told by authorities that
this would be the first such biking tour on the old and new silk route. They
wanted proper documentation for permissions and authorisation letters from
Discover on Wheels, the registered cycling group to allow Three Idiots to cycle
the route which has a total ascent and descent of approximately 23,892 ft. in just under 100kms of ride
with certain incline section as high as 21.2 degrees.
Ms Manisha
Sharma, a cycling enthusiast who also runs a travel agency “Tag Along” along
with Mr Abhinna Mukhia, an ardent and champion mountaineer from Darjeeling joined
me at Padamchen on 1st October, 2015, which was our base camp for
acclimatization where we stayed overnight at a cozy homestay. Considering the weather
as it was still raining in the region, we had planned to cover the distance in
3 days starting from 2nd October on Gandhi Jayanti with overnight
homestays at Longthu and Gnathang Valley.
Uphill from
Padamchen, we were heading towards a region which had recently traced leopards,
wild pigs and even red pandas. The zig zag incline route with numerous hair pin
bends went through thick vegetation of pine, teak and different species of oak
trees. The biking route was to
start from Padamchen at 6140 ft above sea level to Nathula Pass via Zuluk and
Gnathang Valley and then down to Gangtok via Tsomgo Lake. We didn’t get
permissions to ride upto the border, so we had to satisfy ourselves till the gates of the pass - Dagar Dwaar.
Route map
First
day ride upto Longthu via Zuluk was the toughest which included the famous 32
hair pin zig zag roads which can be viewed completely on a clear day from
Thambi View Point at 11,200 ft above sea level. The weather in this region is
very unpredictable and changes frequently. It was clear sky when we started,
expecting a sunny day but it suddenly became misty, foggy and cloudy.
Homestay owner
offered us a scarf as a sign of good luck
Enroute Padamchen to Zuluk
One of the numerous hair pin climbs on the way to Zuluk
We took breaks to take
selfies amidst serene surrounding
10
kms into the ride, we reached Zuluk where we took an hour-long breakfast break.
Zuluk or Dzuluk is a small hamlet that resides amongst the
serene, beautiful landscape of the Eastern Himalayas. At a height of
about 9800 ft, the natural beauty which Zuluk offers is a treat for
one's eyes. With a population of about 750 people, the tranquility
of Zuluk is in the air. We felt rejuvenated and fresh in the
pristine surroundings and chilly wind that coming from the Himalayas.
At Zuluk
We continued our onward ride towards Longthu which was about
16kms uphill. We reached there by 3pm. On the first day itself we had climbed
more than 7000 ft under misty cloudy conditions. We checked into a homestay at
Longthu and were served very delicious homemade food for lunch and dinner.
Zig Zag
roads from Zuluk to Longthu
Enroute Longthu
Next day morning we woke up to a thick cover of black clouds
hiding the Kanchenjunga and even the zig zag roads below. Undeterred and
determined to stick to our schedule, we decided to ride in rain jackets.
Luckily it stopped raining by the time we were ready to ride but the cloud
cover remained with extremely foggy conditions making the visibility less than
10 meters.
The
clouds enveloped us as we rode from towards Gnathang Valley
It was a recovery day ride. We had kept the riding distance
short, only 10kms upto Gnathang Valley as there is no available accommodation
beyond the place in that route. So we rode carefully on the steep sharp curves.
Manisha
Sharma feeling exhausted after the long climbing
The high point of the ride that day was the chai adda break
with the army personnel of the Madras regiment who were thrilled to see us at
12500 ft and wanted to know our experience. We however were not allowed to take
pictures with them but it’s an experience that will remain etched in our memory.
With a short break there, we reached Gnathang Valley in under 2 hours ride.
At
Laxman point, just before entering Gnathang Valley
In
front of our homestay in Gnathang Valley
They
say, if you do not like Gnathang Valley, then you may not like Paradise.
Situated at the height of 13,500 ft. above the sea level, Nathang Valley is one
of the most beautiful places in Old-Silk-Route. Nathang is the highest location
to stay in the Indian part of the Old Silk Route. It is one of the remotest
Tibetan habitations in Himalayas. The valley usually remains covered with thick
snow from January to April. The long four-month of sub-zero temperature makes
the valley a cold desert and one of the most beautiful parts of Himalayas. We
didn’t find any snow in October. Since we reached early, we decided to explore
the region on our wheels. We visited a monastery, a Krishna temple and also a
war memorial carrying the memories of "Tukla War".
Krishna
Mandir in middle of Gnathang Valley
Monastery
in Gnathang Valley
The
accommodation again at the homestay was pleasant and we were taken good care.
We kept our bikes with us in the room after the ride and took a nap after the
meal. The weather got chilly from the evening as it again started raining which
went on entire night till next morning.
My room in Gnathang
Valley
About
64kms of ride still remained to be covered in the day and we realized we must
start early to reach Changu Lake after which we knew it was all 40kms of
downhill till Gangtok. So we had to cover a hard 24kms of riding at high
altitude with gradual uphill sections. We started from Gnathang Valley at
around 8 am and were greeted by a clear view of the Himalayan range and
Kanchenjunga as the skies had started to clear. We saw different colour shades
as sunshine entered the valley.
Enroute to Baba Mandir from Gnathang Valley
I
could definitely feel the altitude that day early into the ride. Just 30minutes
into the ride, I was quickly getting out of breath. My heart rate was shooting
up as I started panting and I had to stop frequently to recover and get it
down. I was wearing a heart rate monitor belt to keep my heart beats under
check and it turned out to be a good decision.
Abhinna who is a mountaineer advised me to take deep breath from the
nose and not my mouth and also to uncover my ears to acclimatize faster. And I
did. I started to feel better and our pace improved.
Finding it tough at high
altitude
On
our way to Nathula Gate, we stopped at Old and new baba mandir and the elephant
lake. The army personnel at Kupup check point were thrilled to see cyclists in
that region climbing uphill and got eager to take pictures. They wished us good
luck and safe riding ahead.
Elephant Lake
At Kupup with Army men
Finally
making to the midpoint of our ride at Dagar Dwaar which is a gateway to Nathula
Pass was a special feeling and we felt proud to have made it so far.
The
roads leading from the Dagar Dwaar towards Changu Lake were not good and we had
to be very careful from the shooting stones and road construction work in
progress.
The
last few kilometers before reaching Tsomgo Lake were fun as it was nice
downhill ride and good roads. The lake was buzzing with tourists as it is
popular spot. It was already 3pm and we still had 40kms to cover. After taking
pictures with the colourfully dressed Yaks in the background, we continued our
downward ride towards Gangtok.
At Tsomgo Lake
Our
final leg of the ride from Tsomgo Lake to Gangtok though mostly downhill became
very challenging as the weather had changed. It was extremely foggy and we had
to be careful of the tourist vehicles also rushing back to the city. Many sections
were marked “Sinking road” which were as steep as 36 degrees. I was more
confident on my bike which had hydraulic disk brakes but Manisha and Abhinna
had to struggle and be extra cautious with their v-braking systems.
Just one of the many
Sinking steep downhill roads towards Gangtok
from Tsomgo Lake
The
tourist car drivers however were also careful when passing us each time. The continuous
steep down roads, with sharp hair pin curves and then again a steep down were
very challenging and heart throbbing. It
got dark by 5.30pm and we rode the last 4-5 kms in the trailing headlights of
our backup car. By 6pm we successfully finished the ride with a group hug in
Gangtok.
Over
the farewell dinner, we all agreed that this is one of the best ride we have
ever done and hoped that this route would soon become a popular mountain biking
destination. And we will definitely be back!!
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Written by:
Nishant Maheshwari
One of
the cyclists on this expedition and co-founder of Discover on Wheels
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